If your tiles have lost their original appeal, you might want to replace them with modern and stylish alternatives. However, removing the floor tiles can be a daunting and time-consuming project, with challenges waiting to emerge once you begin. The tile may be challenging to remove if attached to mason boards or bare cement.
Peel-and-stick tiles are easier to install than conventional tiles that require a lot of time and materials. The tiles are also great for renters that might need to remove them in the future. Peel-and-stick come in an array of materials such as vinyl, stone, and metal.
Take advantage of the following tips when installing the peel and stick tile.
How To Remove Peel And Stick Tile From Ceramic Tile
1. Inspect The Existing Floor
Ensure that you are installing the peel and stick tiles on a clean floor, free of debris. Avoid installing the tile on another peel and stick tile as it will fail. If cracks and faults are the reasons why you are replacing the tile, address them first.
You need to install the vinyl flooring on a tightly sealed, seamless, and smooth surface. Before you begin:
- Inspect the ceramic tile to identify the cracks
- Check if the grout lines are deep or wide
- Fill up the gaps
- Allow it to dry
Any flaws that you cover up will work against you once you embark on the project.
2. Clean The Floor
It would be best to clean the floor thoroughly to remove any debris that might bond with the adhesive. Vinyl is lighter than ceramic and might crack if debris and rocks lie beneath the surface. The underlayment also needs to be dry at all times.
If water seeps through the vinyl to the underlayment, it will cause the wood to swell. Once the contaminants loosen from the floor, the tiles will begin to lift.
Take the following steps during cleanup:
- Vacuum the surface to remove the dirt
- Mop the floor with soap and water
- Remove grease with ammonia
- Identify the flaws
3. Correct Flaws In The Underlying Floor
Purchase a premixed floor leveler to fill the holes and cracks. You need to spread the leveler across the floor and use a putty knife or trowel to make it smooth. Avoid humid conditions as they may delay the rate at which the floor dries.
- Raise the floor about 1 inch
- Make sure the subgrade is compacted properly
- Strengthen the concrete with a low water to cement ratio (0.45 to 0.60)
- Allow it to cure for three days
4. Prep Work
The trick is to install the tile diagonally to break up the room and make it feel larger. Diagonal tile patterns always begin at the center of the room. Measure the width of the room and divide the figure by two.
Then put down chalk or a string to guide you through the process.
Start installing the tiles from the middle and proceed towards the edges. Never work from both sides as defects will appear in the middle. Starting from the center ensures that defects occur on the edges.
5. Prime The Floor
If you prime the floor before tiling, you can reduce the porosity significantly. The VCT adhesive not only holds the tiles firmly but also prevents chemical reactions with cement-based adhesives. Apply a thin coat of the primer and let it dry for a few hours.
Then start laying your tiles according to your preferences (whether diagonal or vertical). If you want to avoid discrepancies in the grouting, use some tile spacers. The spacers are available in various sizes (from 1/8 of an inch to ¼ of an inch) and are easy to use.
6. Roll The Floor
The tiles can loosen if you’ve not laid them with the right amount of adhesive. In other instances, the adhesive might be unevenly distributed. Voids can appear on the tiles once exposed to traffic.
It will help if you rent a heavy-duty roller to roll the tiles down. The roller will press down the tiles and cause them to adhere to the underlayment properly, leading to a longer-lasting floor.